Indulge Decor Blog

Paris, January 2011

 

A week in the Bahamas sounds dreamy. A week in Paris sounds like heaven. A week in New York sounds exciting. . . . . But, dreamy, heaven, and exciting all in the span of just 4 short weeks sounds simply exhausting, even to a professional tourist (wanderer) like myself.

I was supposed to leave Houston on Tuesday / to arrive Paris Wednesday, but stupid Continental Airlines had a 'scheduled' flight cancellation and bumped us (Issac & moi) to the next flight - which in 'international' lingo means the next day - new itinerary leave Houston on Wednesday / to arrive Paris Thursday.

Well, you might say - big deal, it's just a day. However, on a short 7 day international trip a day can feel like a lot, especially when you have to count travel days (Wed. & following Wed.) In other words, this trip to Paris will have to be non-stop go, go, go. It's a good thing that I'm all rested up from the Bahamas.

Wednesday - leave Houston @ 3:30 p.m. (travel day)

Thursday - arrive Paris @ 9:30 a.m. (transition day)

*Travel Tip - I always reserve the hotel room for the night prior to arrival and remind the concierge (by email) that I will be a very late check-in (10:30 the following morning, ha ha). I get to the room, have a shower, a little 'disco' nap, and then I am good to go around 1:00 for lunch at my favorite little neighborhood cafe. (Otherwise, standard European hotel check-in time is around 3 p.m.) Trust me, my way is much more civilized and well worth the additional expense.

 

Cafe Flore

 

Croque Monsier

 

We (my husband, his wallet & moi) follow up brunch with some 'light' shopping. The biggest news in Paris right now is the new 3 level Hermes store situated in the former swimming pool of the Lutetia Hotel (oh so conveniently located across from the Bon Marche department store). You will need deep pockets for this shopping jaunt, . . . very deep pockets. Your dear husband will think he is treading water (drowning) in the deep end with every sigh and ahh you make.

 

The New Hermes Store

17 rue de Sevres, 6th arr.

Yes, you are correct in your realization . . . . the left bank!

 

 

 

To include, flower boutique by florist Baptiste Pitou (think the likes of Christian Tortu / Takashimaya), cafe Le Plongeoir (translation - the diving board) serves tea, coffee, and pastries on house brand Hermes china!, book corner, tabletop, bed linens, towels, baby gifts, men's wear, women's wear, and oh yeah - leather. Leather like b-u-t-t-e-r.

As a professional blogger at large (ha ha), I should mention the crazy tight security Hermes has all over the store - No pictures, please! Go figure, the Rodin Museum leaves priceless art collections hanging on the walls with little or no supervision, but heaven forbid you come too close to a precious objet (in my case, a canvas tote) 'un-escorted' in the new Hermes store.

My Insider Blog Tip: Don't touch anything! Don't even look too closely unless you are planning to buy it.

 

Pictures of the new Hermes store downloaded from internet.

 

Sweeping staircase made of curved strips of ash wood.

 

 

 

 

Original tile columns and floor.

 

Metal work is original also.

 

 

 

 

  

 Me standing on the street sneaking a picture of Issac while he is 'browsing' for poppies in the new Hermes store.

Take that security!

- - -

Blog Insider Tip:

Just down the street, Catherine B showcases 'Certified Pre Owned' (CPO) Hermes and Chanel goods. 

 

 

 

 

 

If you didn't see just the bag (Birkin or Kelly) you were looking for, pop next door to Les Trois Marches for more choices - same owner.

 

 

 If you are truly interested in making an acquisition, the owner has even more styles and colors in the back (secret warehouse). All you have to do is speak up and tell the nice gentlemen exactly what you would like, and he goes back to his back stock room (secret warehouse), and shazam he reappears with just The Bag sans the 6 month to 1 year waiting list. CPO Hermes is not only a huge money saver but also a big time saver to boot.

Blog Insider Joke - I was told by a complete know-it-all that black has the highest resell value, but really . . . whatever! If I ever got to buy an Hermes handbag, I would never sell it, never!

 

La Cornue

The Birkin of stoves, ha ha.

- - - - -

Friday

I'm feeling much better today. First on the itenerary is brunch at Cafe Flore.

 

 

I was joking with Issac that I may have landed in Paris yesterday, but today I feel that I have 'arrived.' It is amazing what a difference 24 hrs. makes.

We actually have some errands to run today. Issac wants to go the 'pharmacy' to buy his eye drops. I would like to get some eye glasses. We (moi) want to order Issac some shoes. And, I need to get some shoes to go with a brown/bronzy leather coat that I bought last fall that didn't seem to look right with any of the shoes that I owned (hate it when that happens, grrr). We have to move fast because I want to go see my 'boyfriend' at the Rodin Museum.

 

Eye Glasses Shopping at Francis Klein

  

 

 

Issac looking very self-important with shop owner, hee hee.

 

 

Shoe Shopping for Issac at Shipton & Heneage 

 

 

There to order Custom Slippers by Matthew Cook.

 

Actually, Issac was fitted for his shoe size, but we (he) just couldn't decide what to have stitched on the shoes, . . . . . it can be very custom. Even Briard custom!

 

 

- - - 

 

The Rodin Museum

Every time we visit the Rodin Museum, they are hosting another exhibit. Don't be of the mindset - Seen it once, you've seen it a M times.

 

The Arch, 1969 by Henry Moore

 

 

 

We chose NOT to check our coats.

 

 

The only painting I would ever wish to steal - Pere Tanguy, 1887 by Van Gogh

 

I want Issac to copy this series of landscapes by Rodin for me. I think they would look great in my family room. The paintings are so simple yet make such a statement when hung together in a series.

 

Golden Twilight Over the Dunes in the Forest of Soignes, 1871 to 1877 by Rodin

 

 

I still think it's funny, tee hee.

 

- - -

 After a full day of sightseeing, museum-ing, & shopping, I have not 1 but 2 nasty blisters. A tad embarrasing shoe shopping at Tod's.

 

 

The shoes that I should have bought (also) last September, . . . a brilliant match! Now I can wear the coat, finally a mere 4 months later, grrr.

 

 

 - - - - -

Saturday, Sunday, & Monday all Maison & Objet Show Days - translation work. The reason that I am actually in Paris for a week to begin with.

- - - - -

My brother has always wanted to join us in Paris on one of our little jaunts. Every year, he asks me what is there to do in Paris for the kids (ages 8 & 5).

Honestly, I have no idea how to respond. How many museums, churches, gardens, and parks can you drag 2 little kids both under the age of 10 to?

But now, now I have one fun place to recommend for a family with little kids to sightsee in Paris . . .

La Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmarte

Tuesday

When Issac asked the charming front desk girl at our hotel (Hotel des Saints Peres) for the address of the church to give the taxi driver, she laughed and exclaimed, "If the taxi driver needs the address to Sacre Coeur, then you should get out of that taxi and wait for the next taxi. Everyone in Paris knows Sacre Coeur!"

 

 

 

The Basilica is located at the highest point in the city.

 

Issac had his image drawn by a street artist.

 

 

His photo taken with a live statue.

 

 

I would have ridden on the funny little train, but Issac said next time (no).

 

All in all, Issac (homeland Israel) had a great time at The Basilica (Catholic Church) and as a reward for being so well behaved, I took him to Laduree for pastries.

His dessert of choice is the giant confectionary glob that takes up almost the entire (luncheon size) plate.

 

 

 

Did I mention the weather in Paris that entire week was cold & drizzly, with a high of 37 degrees, brrr.

 

 

Next day Houston, then off to New York for more of the same, except even colder with a foot of snow!

 

Paris / Capri, September 2010 - Just Paris

 

I have been to Paris so many times now that I am actually beginning to feel a little bit less like a 'tourist' and a little bit more like a 'local'.  So having made that distinction (tourist/local), my husband and I decided to do less 'touristy' things this trip and just 'hang out' in Paris for a week. As 'locals',  we walked everywhere. We rode the subway to and from the Objet Show everyday. We went to a museum, ate at cafes and bistros, walked through parks, munched on crepes, and copped a squat and listened to a street band. As 'locals', we spent a glorious week just hanging out in Paris with no agenda other than we had to go to work (Objet Show) for a few days, but other than that we had no set itinerary (lists). 

Weather - Unseasonably Hot!

I brought all these cute fall clothes to wear but when we arrived Paris the temperature was in the mid 80's. All the Parisian fashionistas were dressed in flirty sun-dresses to show off their just-back-from-the-coast (or Lancome) fabulous tans. Luckily, I had my extra bag of clothes that was packed for my Capri Holiday.

First up on our 'non-list' of 'local' Parisian things to do - a museum.

I particularly wanted to visit the musee d' art moderne because we did a blog post (May 22, 2010 - Master Masterpiece Heist) last May when 5 paintings were stolen valued at over $150 million dollars. Unbelievably, the thief absconded with a Picasso, a Matisse, a Braque, a Madigliani, and a Leger.

         

Worth the Trip: You must go to see the following 2 Matisse paintings - really quite spectacular!

    Matisses's Movie Theater Size Triptychs.

3D glasses not included, ha ha.

Note - not so tiny husband standing front and center for scale.

     

   

Triptych Also Available (to Steal) in Peach and Blue (OK, not so funny).

     

And, As You Leave the Museum - Texas Size Scary Spider.

  One day Godzilla will battle the arachnid and sadly lose, tee hee.   

  Of course (wink wink), I had no secret (shopping spree) agenda when I chose the musee d' art  moderne. Like I said (implied), my museum choice was merely professional - we had done a blog on the Pink Panther like burglary and it was my professional duty to follow through with the story.

But, who knew (not my sweet husband) that the musee d'art moderne was such a short walk to the all too frivolous Right Bank, tee hee?

   

Should I get Bayou City stamped across my beautiful Goyard bag in a lovely swamp brown tone?

 Anyhew, thinking it is time to replace white Goyard bag with new fall color (black or burgundy), but too tired to make such monumental decision today. Will come back later, hopefully. 

   

Lanvin

Chanel

 

Chanel's New Eskimo Collection

 

Gucci

Never to be Outdone by Chanel.

   

How Cute are G.'s Awnings!

 

This is About When My Sweet Husband Begins to Tire.

I Love the New Super-Sized 'Perlee' Pieces!!!

New 'Perlee Collection' debuted in Paris the day before and is not even available in the States yet. 

Meet Diamond the Wonder Dog, too cute!

 

 

- - - - - - -

Left Bank

Home-Sweet-Home

You won't see too many chauffeured driven Maybachs on the Left Bank.

A Camo Painted Swatch Car Parked (Concealed) in a No-Parking Zone.

   

Here Kitty - Kitty.

 

The Dreaded Subway 

 Not my favorite local Parisian Custom.   

Crepe Stand

The most incredible smell in the world - butter & sugar over an open flame.

Luxembourg Gardens

Here I am with the grand dame.

  

One of These Days my Husband Will Work Up the Courage to Ask if He Could Join in on a Game?

 

Notice most civilized coat rod - very practical in a heated game of Bocce.

Fun Jazzy Street Band

Cafe Flore

Les Editeurs Cafe 

Macaroons

 

What I Bought Myself

     

Khaki and Military Green colored sweaters by Burberry, to go with new Cargo Jeans - tres chic.

And oh, the shoes are new too. The shoes were purchased with way too much consideration.

Fashionista Tip - Cute new  Tod's shoes available with 'gold-toned' hardware at Bon Marche and 'silver-toned' hardware at Tod's, hmmm. I did not notice this specific style (finish) detail but my architect husband did. (Don't ask me why he noticed 'it' but all I can say is that his eyes are trained to see details no other human would ever see - not even me!)

Gold hardware or silver hardware, hmmm.

"Oui," tres chic Tod's sales girl explained. "The Bon Marche has the same but different shoes." 

Dilemma. Which ones do I get? Am I gold or am I silver? My watch is stainless (but I never wear my watch anymore).  My diamond band is platinum (but I never wear that anymore either).  My new VCA jewelry (gifted over the course of the last year) is all rose gold.  I'm not wearing a belt at the moment.

I can't make up my mind.  I don't know which ones (pair) to get - silver hardware or gold? What are your shoes supposed to match?

Sensing my frustration and suspecting that she is about to lose an easy sale, tres chic sales girl asks, "Your bag, what accent does your handbag have - gold or silver?"

"I don't know. I can't remember," I confessed.

But, I haven't bought a new purse yet!

Should the shoes match the bag? Because as soon as I get to work, I put my bag upstairs in the office, and nobody will see the bag again all day. So, why would I want to match my shoes to my bag? (Which leads to bigger question - Why do I spend so much money on handbags stored upstairs in office all day?)

Tres chic sales girl sighed as only French women can sigh, and got up to help a more experienced fashionista.

My husband looked at me not understanding how this (gold /silver) issue could be such a big deal and immediately regretted that he had pointed out the (seemingly minute) difference.

I laid in bed that night (still suffering from jet-lag and irrationally irritated at husband for sleeping so soundly) and mulled over the newest fashion realm that I had just plunged into, most regrettably.

How much does 'it' all have to match? 

Tod's must have had a legitimate point. They (shoe genius) would not have designed both shoes (silver and gold hardware) if it were not necessary to choose (or have both).

Bag. . . Shoes . . .Belt . . . ?

Watch . . Rings . . .Bracelets . . . Necklaces . . . ?

Platinum . . .Stainless Steel, Yellow Gold, Rose Gold . . . .

Is it enough that the jewelry all matches, . . . .  but do the accessories have to all match too? And, do the accessories have to match the jewelry.

What Trumps What?

In the immortal words of George Costanza's dad, "Serenity now, serenity now."

Shoe Crisis Conclusion:

Whatever!!!

In all my OCD-ness, I can't even go there. In my defense, I chalk it up to - I suffered a momentary fashionista brain-freeze brought on by jet-lag and perhaps too many cafe-au-laits.

To be perfectly honest with you, I don't know how much it should all match or not match. I have no idea how detailed the 'total look' should be - meaning purse, belt, shoes, watch, bracelets, rings, necklaces, earrings . . . .

All I know is this - before I stepped into the Tod's shop, I don't think that I consciously had ever given 'it' all that much consideration. If I did, I don't know how I would be able to leave the house in the morning and be anywhere on time.

But, one thing is for sure . . .

It (the momentary lapse of reality) sure made the decision to buy a new Goyard bag easier.

Goyard Bag Hardware Free!

Available in a rainbow of colors and most importantly, . . . . . hardware free!!!

- - - - - 

Our New Candle Line!

Carriere Freres Candles

Charming shop located just around corner from Les Editeurs Cafe.

And,

Where We Didn't Go to Eat a Turkey Burger . . . . 

Ralph Lauren's new shop and cafe located on St. Germaine. 

- - - - - 

More to Come on the 'Good Stuff' that I bought at the show.

Paris - January 2010: Shopping

C:

Fashionistas around the world flock to Paris in January for the winter clothing sales. And, one of my favorite places to start is the legendary Le Bon Marche. Founded in 1852, Le Bon Marche is often referred to as the world's first department store.

  Shopping at Le Bon Marche is also a favorite rainy-day-in-Paris past time for many fashionistas, so expect a crowd. The store is so beautiful and inviting that even my husband didn't mind coming out of the rain to help me shop.

 

As you step off the elevators, you are reminded at every glance that there is a big sale.

         

  

Look how cute the Balenciaga straw tote is! Wouldn't it make a really cute new beach bag, hmmm? Of course, the one thing I really wanted was not on sale, typical. 

Take note of Le Bon Marche clever window display! All windows turned into framed fish tanks.

And yes, that is not a cold rainy day mirage! It is exactly what you think - a cute little fish swimming around a pair of summery white Havaiana flipflops. I would love to see Anna Wintour's contorted face as she falls over from fashion shock. Is this the end of fashion as we know it in Paris or just a cute visual?

 

Cute Merry-Go-Round in little park across the way from Le Bon Marche.

Perfect for nannies to distract unruly children while mommies shop.

Window shopping in Saint Germain:

Prada

Gray for spring?

Shoes and bag - crystal clear this season.
           

YSL

Our little Ali would look so great in this dress!

   
Fabulous agate necklace sold right off the mannequin while I was taking the picture. Notice how great the matching bracelet is.

And, my YSL window!

             

Love the new YSL Roady bag in black raffia with patent leather handle, hmmm. Maybe that's my new summer bag! Shown with simple black dress and kitty-cat heels.

Christian Dior

Love thy purple. White is nice for spring too.

 

Hermes 

Coming 2010 
 
(Adjacent to Hotel Lutetia )

Louis Vuitton

Do you ever get the feeling of - Being 'caged in' by your designer handbag and designer sneakers?

 

Window Shopping with the 'big boys' - Right Bank:

This would be a good time to ask you dear, sweet husband if he would like to see just one last great monument erected in Napoleon's honour. You know, something historical that he would enjoy.

Vendome Column

 Vendome Column was made from 133 captured enemy cannons from the battle of Austerlitz, you explain oh-so-matter-of-factly.

"And, oh look at all the pretty stores," you innocently point out with just a hint of a smile. "While we are here, we should just have a look around."

Van Cleef & Arpels

My husband is so relieved we do not have a VCA store in Houston.

  Gifted very thoughtful VCA gift certificate for Christmas. Just showing my husband some of the pretties that I may choose from.

     

What you don't see is my husband clicking away on the calculator on his little iPhone to see which is the better deal - Euros versus dollars. Answer: still dollars.

The Others:

  
   

         

 

Goyard

Can you believe they leave that 'stuff' just sitting around? What is that about $20,000 or $30,000 in street signage?

 Wondering what I bought for presents on my shopping expedition?

 

A puppy dog purse for her (my niece) and a French soccer ball for him (my nephew).  

Laduree

Macaroons for everyone else.

And oh, maybe a few for the plane ride home, wink.

Coming Soon: Pictures of all the 'good stuff' I bought for you at The Objet Show.

Au revoir for now!

Paris - January 2010: The Museums

 

C:

A visit to a museum is the perfect way to spend a rainy day in Paris. And, since I've already confessed my monotonous and repetitive personality, I'm sure you will not be the least bit surprised to learn that my January museum tour began with an old favorite -

The Rodin Museum:

And, what luck! The Rodin Museum was having a special exhibit called Matisse & Rodin   comparing the two great artists.

Wonder how Matisse got first billing, hmmm?

I have to be honest with you, my art history knowledge is somewhat lacking. I did take several courses after college that focused on 'modern' artists from 1890-1925, and I had studied the similarities of Matisse and Picasso. But, I had never made the connection between Matisse and Rodin (and, I'm not sure the artists had either, at least not Rodin). There was a 29 year difference (plus success and reputation) between the two men when they first met. The story the exhibit tells is that Monsieur Rodin was not very encouraging of the younger artist and certainly not the mentor type. Rodin basically told the much younger Matisse that his work was too easily done and  that there was not enough effort made (what a jerk!). That was the last time Matisse asked to meet Rodin.

The comparisons the exhibit makes are really extraordinary in technique and ability. The works are so parallel that you would have thought that the two men were working side by side in the same room. I, personally, loved this exhibit.

Why I came - My Van Gogh.

His Balzac.

I still can't believe how friendly this museum is! They are so unpretentious (careful) about their treasures.

Musee National Picasso Paris:

The Picasso Museum was an old favorite of mine. Located in the Marais in a former Mansion, the Picasso Museum is what I would call - a one man show. It's all Picasso! What I remember thinking when I left that museum the first time was - My God, he must have never stopped working. There was so much Picasso, and if I'm correct that is not the only Picasso Museum, there is even another Picasso Museum honoring the great man in Spain.

 

 
  

But, too bad for us. Even though we checked the website for the Picasso Museum, we failed to read in French that the museum would be closed for restoration until 2010.

Note pinned to shut gate.

Musee Jacquemart - Andre

For all you ladies who love to shop, this is the museum for you! I recommend this museum to you because of it's proximity to the Champs Elysees and because the museum is very clever. You will want to (should) go to the museum to see all the French masters, and the beautiful Flemish and Italian Renaissance works, but while you are walking around the museum (mansion) you suddenly feel like you are visiting an old relative who you have heard of for years but have never met.

Please note, the backside of the house conveniently faces the busy boulevard.

You actually enter the museum through the driveway.

   

Look, no lines!

 

As you walk up the driveway, you are welcomed by the two most beautiful Magnolia trees I have ever seen!

  

And now, you have arrived at the front door of the Museum. Let the tour begin!
   

The Jacquemart Mansion was the home of Edouard Andre and his society painter wife Nelie Jaquemart. The mansion took six years to build and was completed in 1875. Many of the rooms were specifically designed to showcase their extensive art collection. 

You can pickup an audio set when you walk through the front door and a narrator (who happens to sound a lot like my Uncle Charlie) will guide you through the home. In the grand ballroom (that could hold up to a 1,000 guests!) you can sit and listen to a waltz and close your eyes and imagine that you had been lucky enough to be invited to such a grand home, for such a lovely party, on such a beautiful French night, ahhh. 

*** Pay particular note to the winter garden and it's beautiful double staircase - quite extraordinary.

After the tour, you can enjoy a refreshment in the grand dining room or weather permitting on the outdoor terrace.

Upon Nelie's death, she bequeathed the mansion and it's contents to the Institut de France as a museum and it's doors were opened to the public in 1913. (The couple sadly had no children.)

***I learned of this museum from an Indulge Blog reader, thank you for you wonderful suggestion :} We loved it!

Tomb of Napoleon:

On May 5, 1821 Napoleon passed away on the island of St. Helena where he had been in exile since 1815. In 1840, King Louis-Phillippe transferred his body to the Invalides and was laid to rest in a grand ceremony on April 2, 1861.

The Tomb of Napoleon is a great museum to take your husband to and is a wonderful lesson in French history and I guess French logic. Again my history isn't that great (blame the private school education), but isn't it kind of contradictory to exile the guy twice, imprison him on an island, and then make him a French legend?

As soon as you walk into the church you will see a beautiful black marble coffin:

 
Not Napoleon, this is brother Jo. Although this is probably the grandest coffin that I have ever seen, just keep walking. Remember, we are honoring the great 'little guy' himself

Walk to the center of the church, now look down.

The 'little guy' is buried in a casket within a casket, within a casket, within a casket, within a casket (total 5 caskets).

Aside from all of Napoleon's victories at war, what the French chose to honor Napoleon the most for is his 'Civil Codes.' The Code Napoleon established in 1804 allowed freedom of religion, forbade privileges based on birth, and government jobs went to the most qualified.

I just had to snap a picture of Napoleon dressed in his 'Bee Gown.'

       

I bet our little Queen Bee, Martha S., has one in every color, tee hee.

Museum Tip:

Check on line with each museum to see what days and hours they are open. Also, try to go the 'smaller' museums on the weekends and the larger ones (Orsay) during the week.

Hope you enjoyed the fourth installment, tomorrow is Shopping! 

Au revoir.

Paris - January 2010: Restaurant Reservations

C:

When I think of eating out in Paris, I always think of Napoleon's famous quote: "An army marches on its stomach."

Take heed ladies, Napoleon was a wise leader. If you want to drag your husband to one more museum, or shop, or garden, or church, make sure he is well fed. It is a commonly known truth that husbands (or boyfriends) are much more agreeable (and generous) if they are not hungry.

With so little time in Paris this trip, I had to really give some consideration to where I would like to eat. When I asked my husband if he had any preferences or suggestions, his only comment was, "Let's try something new."

DINNER RESERVATIONS:

Now, my husband and I like to eat dinner at what the French affectionately call - Le Bistro. And, please be advised, that the French maitre'd prefers that you have a reservacion whether he is full or not.

So, again, I consulted my American Express Departures Magazine - the France Issue, October 2009, for their blackbook favorites: Titled - The Bistro Chronicles. Here are their 4 suggestions:

Le Bistrot Paul Bert

Le Bistrot de Paris

Chez L'Ami Jean

Chez Georges

Then, I remembered the story of when Obama was in Paris with his family last June, and 'He' managed somehow to cancel dinner at the last minute with the French President Nicolas Sarkozy and his lovely wife Carla Bruni (ahem) to take his own family out to dinner to a classic French Bistro - La Fontaine de Mars.

Remember the funny scene in the classic movie Roman Holiday, when Gregory Peck tricked sweet, little Audrey Hepburn . . . ?

Fierce lion awaits cowardly tourists across the street.

So, of course I had to see the restaurant the Pres. chose to eat at instead of having dinner with an ex-supermodel.

 
Maybe Mrs. Obama made the last minute restaurant reservacions, hmmm. (I doubt Mrs. O. brought her bikini to Paris )

My next 'Bisto-out-of-the Hat' coup was Le Grand Colbert. 

Remember that wonderful scene in the movie Somethings Gotta Give when Diane Keeton is having her birthday dinner in Paris at her favorite restaurant Le Grand Colbert with hottie doctor, Keanu Reeves and in walks man-about-town Jack Nicholson . . . .? 

Movie poster at front door of LGC restaurant, confirming you chose the correct movie restaurant.
Well, I got to sit in that exact booth . . . . . .eeeccchhh!!!! Hollywood history!

Note - cute little 'take 5' sign on display at booth that I'm sitting at.

As I sat there enjoying my dinner as much as I have ever enjoyed a dinner in my entire life and channeling cute Diane Keaton,  I can't help think -  How in the world did American Express miss putting Le Grand Colvert on their top Bistro list? What an incredible blunder?! Heads should roll (bad Revolutionary French humor, ha). Then I tried to pay my bill. The waiter smugly handed me back my American Express card and replied, "We do not take that. Only, Visa and Mastercard."

(Sign on the wall at LJC. I don't read French but even I get that - No checks or Amx.)

Ahhh. That's why LGC wasn't on the list. No problem for me and my reservation list, I don't care if I had to pay in shoes, LGC was my favorite dinner in Paris this trip. In fact, we liked it so much we made reservacions to come back to eat two nights later. On the second night we were seated in 'The French Section,' probably because I forgot to pack (wear) a slip with my dress. The Maitre'd must have assumed I was European, tee hee.

  May I suggest the artichoke salad, curried lamb, and apple crumble a la mode.

LUNCH RESERVATIONS:

The Jules Verne Restaurant

Eiffel Tower, 2nd. Level

The Jules Verne Dream:

I have wanted to eat at the Jules Verne restaurant for at least 10 years. And, that is a really long time for someone like me to hold out for something. I was able to make my reservation for lunch 'on-line' using my American Express card and agreeing to an 85 Euro/per person cancellation fee. I can't tell you what the terms of the cancellation deposit were because I didn't even bother to read it. JV obviously did not know that I had waited ten years for this reservation.

J.V. Reservation Tip: Ask for a table by the window! And, pray for a beautiful, sunny day.

The Jules Verne Reality:

My first 'full' day in Paris was perfectly planned - morning at the Rodin Museum, lunch at J.V., and then the afternoon at the Picasso museum -so was the plan.

(Read more about the Rodin Museum in Paris - January 2010 Museums.)

The Rodin Museum shares a neighborhood with several official government buildings. And, wouldn't it be just our (my) luck that just as we left the museum to catch a taxi to lunch, about 50 police cars descended on the quiet neighborhood, blocking all streets, and cutting off the flow of all traffic except blue government official cars.

   

So, as an American you rationalize and you think - How long could this blockade possibly last? And, thirty minutes later, you are now terribly late for your reservation, and you are wishing that you had read the stupid JV cancellation policy. So now is about the time that my 'happy day' takes a definite turn. I don't want to leave my 'waiting-for-a-taxi-post,' and, my husband is pulling toward the Metro. Two trains and four stops later, the Metro deposits us still four long blocks away from the Eiffel Tower.

I'm actually not smiling. That was definitely more of a  ---- you smile.

Now, my husbands says we have to make a run for it before they give our table away, because now we are really late for our reservation even by American standards.

 This is not what I had planned for my 'perfect day.' I feel that I can safely say that we were the only two guests lunching in the Jules Verne that day that had taken the subway, ugh. Lunch is incredible and it is very long. After three hours of 'lunching' my husband's mood was wearing thin. And, when he got the bill, I think the air in the restaurant got a little thin too, because he started to look a little pale. Note to American Express Departures Magazine - You should definitely add the J.V. restaurant to your list. Don't you guy's work on some type of percentage fee? $$$$$.

JV. Tip: Ladies, for those of you whose husbands can suffer from 'the-air-is-a-little-thin' moments at over the top tourist-expensive restaurants, may I suggest this approach:

Tell your husband that you have booked special passes to ride in a 'private elevator' to the 2nd level of the Eiffel Tower. 

And, private access to the 2nd. floor observation decks.

And, oh by the way, lunch is included! My husband would so go for that, tee hee!

Price: Bring your Texas size wallet.

Benefit: Memories that will last a lifetime!

Very brave man working on Eiffel Tower. Hope he doesn't have to pee any time soon because he is way up there.

I like to leave at least a couple of nights free toward the end of my Paris trip in case I want to repeat a restaurant, or I discover a new restaurant to try. Walking around our neighborhood (St. Germaine) one night,  we discovered this beautiful restaurant that we had never seen before. (The actual story is we took the wrong street home from dinner one night and were slightly lost.) Infatuated with the architectural design of the interior, my husband went inside and made dinner reservations for our last night. He chose the restaurant simply on design. 

Bouillon Racine

Grand Bouillon Parisien Despuis 1906

 
The restaurant is now listed as an historical monument honoring the Architectural style - Art Nouveau.

Sorry the picture is so dark because I wanted you to get to see how beautiful the building is.

Le Comptoir du Relais:

Le Comptoir is the oh-so-trendy-restaurant in our neighborhood (St. Germaine) that we called twice to make a dinner reservation, and the maitre'd said they were booked until June 9th. Whatever . . . .

This is Le Comptoir at 8:00 p.m.

 

I snapped this shot as I walked by the restaurant on the way to dinner at Racine. Remember, the snooty maitre'd said they were booked, huh.

The is the L.C. restaurant at 10:00 as seen by me walking home from our lovely dinner at Racine. So-o-o busy, lucky I could manage to navigate through the crowds spilling out of the oh-so-trendy-we-don't-need-any-customers restaurant. Good luck to 'ya.

*** Note: Le Comptoir is part of a 4 star hotel called Relais Saint Germain.

Hope you enjoyed the third installment, tomorrow is The Museums. 

Au revoir.

Paris - January 2010: Hotel Reservations

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Hotel Reservations:

As I mentioned earlier, my trip to Paris is for work. Therefore, I do not expect to spend much time in my hotel room. The hotel that I always choose to stay at in Paris is called Hotel de Saint Peres. The accommodations are what I call 'working' style not 'trendy' style. It is a very gracious, friendly hotel located on Rue de Saint Peres, located in the St. Germain area in the 6th arrondissement. For me, the hotel is in the center of everything I love in Paris - the cafes, the shops, the museums, the churches, it's all within walking distance. Once I am back at the hotel, I very seldom need a cab and am completely entertained by all the goings on of the St. Germain area.

 

But, I know this hotel will not meet the expectations of everyone so I would like to include the American Express Departures Magazine - the France Issue, October 2009 list:

Hotel Daniel

Hotel Particulier Montmartre

Le Bellechasse

L'Hotel

Hotel Le Placide

Hotel Travel Tip:

French Hotels and French Restaurants do not have the same rating system. A three star hotel is not the same thing as a three star restaurant and vice versa. Be sure to research carefully which ever hotel you decide to pick. I start with location, then price, then comfort - but remember my trip to Paris is a 'working' trip. You might have a completely different set of parameters.

You simply might be trying to decide between The Ritz, The Plaza Athenee, and The Georges V. (poor you)

Hope you enjoyed the second installment, tomorrow is Restaurant Reservations. 

Au revoir.

Paris - January 2010: Preparation & Packing

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Paris in January is cold. And, when I say cold, I mean sunny cold, windy cold, cloudy cold, drizzly cold, rainy cold, and snowy cold - in any combination on any single day. I will be in Paris for a week, so I am completely expecting to enjoy all the 'states' of cold weather, after all - if you can't enjoy yourself in Paris in January than you just shouldn't have come. If what it takes for you to have a 'nice' holiday is warm sunny weather than may I suggest a Carnival Cruise, those boats are full of fair-weathered tourists. I, on the other hand, am happy to be in Paris. I share a more 'the-wine-glass-is-half-full' type of sentiment and enjoy Paris any time of the year and am thankful to get to go at all.

My trip to Paris is mostly for work. I am to attend the Maison & Objet Show held January 22-26 at the Villepinte - Parc des Expositions (You might notice the sign along the freeway just as you leave the Charles de Gaulle Airport.)

 

But alas, not to worry too much for me because I hope to have at least a day before the show and at least a day after the show to sightsee. (Trip shortened greatly because crammed between Harbour Island and New York - 3 great trips - 1 short month)

PROPOSED SCHEDULE:

Leave Tuesday afternoon - 3:30 p.m.

Arrive Wednesday morning - 7:55 a.m.

Travel Tip: For those of you traveling from Houston or anywhere else that the airline drops you off inconveniently 7 hours before hotel check-in, I wisely book the hotel room for the night before and tell them that I will be a late check-in, very late. That way, when I get to the hotel, I can have a bath, take a nap, and wake up refreshed to start my day with brunch at none other than my favorite serves-breakfast-all-day cafe - Cafe Flore.

               

Thursday - Sightsee

Friday - Showday

Saturday - Showday

Sunday - Showday, expect to skip out early

Monday - Sightsee

Tuesday - Leave Paris 9:25 a.m.

PACKING:

Apparently, I must be drinking from the 'Blogging Kool-Aid.' I wrote that blog (The Concealer) right before I left for Paris - Coats, scarves, boots, sunglasses, jewelry, purses - all 'Concealer Clothes.' All tips ideal for traveling, too.

On the way to the hotel, 12 hour travel day later, ugh. 'Concealer Clothes' holding up better than 12 hour travel breath. Notice darling husband not sitting very close.

My husband has a saying - "If you can't carry it, don't bring it." Translation - he, too, only has two arms and can not manage to schlep more than two bags at a time. Meaning - one reasonable bag for him and one over-packed bag for me. The rest of the so-called necessities (my stuff) is up to me to carry. So over the years, I have managed to convince myself that I can do without a lot of incidentals when it comes to traveling. Besides, if I do conveniently forget something or gleefully managed to way under pack, I am in Paris, and, almost anything can be replaced (upgraded).

Here is my 'Winter Concealer' packing list for Paris in January: To include - show clothes, sightseeing clothes, and special 'date-night-out' clothes.

Full disclosure - this is everything I took to Paris. Including my sleepy-time clothes.

Coats:

• Black Cashmere - for the coldest days.

• Brown Suede - for sunny days.
  

• New Shortie Trench coat - for all the drizzly days. (Which happened to be all but 2 days)                                    

Scarves:           

• Black and Gray Cashmere - (Gifted to my husband years ago, but absconded by loving wife, wink.)
• Kitty-Cat - just for show.
• Mink - showy and warm! Perfect for dress up.

Purses:

• Grey Bag - for all occasions
• Kitty-Cat Satchel - the ideal show bag (I get tons of compliments on this bag. Don't tell, purchased years ago with HSC, shhh.)
• Petit Evening Bag - brought for date-nights. Restaurant tables in Paris are positioned so closely, that I have learned it can be very awkward for waiter and neighboring tables if you have huge purse that needs to be put somewhere. Small bags are tres chic for dinner.

Footwear:

• Work Boots - several years old, way comfortable.
• Glam Boots - for 'date-nights.' Look great with all the dresses I brought.
• Flats - known as my 'shoe-shoes.' Comfortable for walking around the show for hours on end. Who would think flats could be so comfortable.

* Note how small hotel closet is. If my feet were any bigger, I don't think my shoes would have fit!

Shoe Tip: Compede

I buy 2 packs of Compedes at the local Pharmacie as soon as I arrive.

My year round madness of Havainas wearing leaves my feet quite unprepared for the 8 hour grueling show days. I don't care how comfortable those shoes or boots are - there will be blisters. There are always blisters!

  

Jewelry:

I only bring what I will wear constantly. Without hesitation, I took the ring my husband so lovingly purchased for me for our tenth wedding anniversary (After he was reminded on blog that he had forgotten - 3 months later, tee hee. Love the blog!)

 

Notice - French girl carrying an umbrella, hum. Rain is certainly a motif for Paris (and Houston) in January.

T-Shits & Sweaters: for layering.

T-Shirt Tip: I like to wear T-Shirts under my sweaters. Don't think that just because it's winter that you don't sweat. Well, maybe I should make that an 'I' statement. I sweat regardless of the temperature. I think that my sweating is spurned on by the claustrophobic-ness of wearing so many clothes at one time. Just thinking about it makes me sweat.

Jeans: Of course. Jeans are not just American, anymore. You see lots of jeans being worn in Paris - both styles skinny with flats or tucked into boots, and fuller cuts worn out over the boot. Jeans worn with long sweaters, short jackets, and gorgeous minks. (Even in the Anna Wintour movie The September Issue, 'Anna' dares to mention J.Brand jeans in her opening interview, aghast!)

Hair: I know! I know! It wasn't for trying. I remember very well my 'Personal Resolution.' I brought the stupid thing (Chi) and it would not work with any of the converters we brought. So, of course, my hair was wildly frizzy the whole time. I tried to keep it (the heap) up in a ponytail as much as possible but even I started to get a 'pony' headache. 

And, don't even get me started on that 'thing' (apparatus) the hotel calls a blow dryer. My dog Spotswood emits 'toots' with stronger currents than that damn thing had on 'high-speed.'

 

My Packing Essentials:

Products:

The older I get the more 'products' I seem to use. Even though hotels usually provide lovely bath products, I like to begin my day smelling like 'me.' I can not live without my Frederic Fekkai shampoo and conditioner (I buy the large size for home and a special small size for travel.) My own personal crack cream - VRAI.

(Ignore image of Chi. Am still mad at it.)

Things to swallow:

Melatonin - a tablet under the tongue and I sleep like a baby until the dreaded 4 a.m.

Flaxseed Oil - because I can feel the elasticity evaporating from my skin on the plane.

Psyllium - will not explain further. If you know what it is you probably have to take it too. If you have never heard of it than lucky you, for now.

*All pills dumped into convenient ziplock bag because bottles are large and cumbersome.

Hope you enjoyed the first installment, tomorrow is Hotel Reservations.  Au revoir.

Paris Part VII: Window Shopping

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Given the right conditions - a faint breeze, comfortable shoes, and a patient husband, window shopping in Paris can be just as fun as shopping-shopping, but without all the cumbersome bags and obviously, a lot less guilt.

For the best-of-the-best, head over to Rue de Honore.

Chanel - No shirt, no shoes, no service. Admittedly, in some cases, the whole no shirt thing might  get you a better table. Not me, maybe you.

Hermes - My highschool colors were purple and gold, I never thought I would see that particular color combination on purpose. Off a football field. Looks like the set designer for Priscilla Queen of the Desert is working again. I'm not even sure Victoria Beckham could use a suede purple and gold Hermes bag.

 

La Perla - Sometimes, it's not the clothes.

 

Lanvin - Are they getting up or going out?

Count the Kitties! 20% discount off any one item at either store (Indulge and Indulge Linens) if you guess the correct amount of kitties in the picture!

Laduree - In this case, it is the 'window shoppers themselves' that we were taking a picture of - pink bermudas or a 'onesie' go with any style man-bag. 

 

 

Penhaligons - Don't know what to get your father for Christmas - anything in this store!

 

 

Goyard - Thank God they don't have anything to fit my woolly mammoths!

 

Pascal Mutel - the 'new' Christian Tortu

 

Colette - For the person who really doesn't need anything practical.

 

La Coup d'Or Cafe - A location where you will find many exhausted and slightly less monied husbands sitting and patiently waiting with the wives' (or girlfriends', after all, this is Paris) shopping bags. 

In conclusion, I saved $150 on my new French handbag when I purchased it at the Galleria, which left more money to spend on more things. Wink.

 

Paris Part VI: How I Get All The Good Stuff

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SHOPPING: How I Get All The Good Stuff

Plain and simple, here's the beautiful Cote Bastide store on Rue de Poissy. No explanation needed. Please keep in mind the following pictures are amateur snapshots and not professionally styled photographed shots. And it still looks this gorgeous!

Creeky thing in jacket on the left is obviously not Cote Bastide.

The original French provencal store. 

Blanc d'Ivoire's new 5000 square foot store in the Marais - three stories. Unheard of in Paris.

 

Love the open kitchen! I have all this great white pottery on order. Hope they don't keep it all for themselves.

 

 

Don't be fooled by the Restoration Hardware knock-offs. They're not the same.

Baby Blanc d'Ivoire is just around the corner. Check out the cute feetsies on the door.

More shops of interest...

Diptyque - if you have not heard of these candles then go get a glass of wine, and go back to the beginning of the blog, start over again, and don't ever miss a post.

 

Next to it is Claude Nature - the new-old taxidermy store. The store is very cool until you remember that they were somebody's tweety bird before they became somebody's coffee table accessory. Taxidermy is very popular in Paris. Ick.

Shopping Tip: Very difficult to bring back to the U.S. There's not a box on the U.S. Customs form for "Dead Stuffed Animal."

Merci - Paris' new concept store.

Christian Tortu has his flower shop at the front (just like he did at Takashimaya in New York).

 

My husband the architect couldn't stop talking about how much they must have spent on the build-out. I wouldn't have noticed that, I just noticed that this is the coolest, hippest, most crowded store in Paris.

Cool street art. How Parisian to take the side of the building and make it so interesting.

 

And, a real French Briard. Must tell my Texas Briards when I get home.

His name is Iggy and he's 3 years old. What a cutie pie!

 

Paris Part V: The Work Part

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Oh yeah... work.

The Maison & Objet Show happens to be the reason I am in Paris.  The Show occurs twice a year - January and September. I prefer to go to the Show in September only because I prefer Paris in September. January is quite cold and I do not feel as adventurous with my sightseeing when I am miserably chilled. The Show is held at the Parque de Exposion. As a normal tourist, you should have no idea where that is.  As you leave Charles de Gaulle Airport, look up quickly because it is the next exit on your left.

See it's raining!

You can get to the Parque by subway, forty-five minutes and you have to change trains, eeech, or taxi - again, forty-five minutes, costly and traffic-ey. Pick your mode of transportation and don't whine, there is no other way.  The subway is cheap and noisey. The taxi is quiet and costly.

Once at the Objet show, you will find the show broken down by categories:

Hall One: Ethnic Chic

Hall Two: Textile

Hall Three: La Table

Hall Four: L'espace - Interior Decoration

Hall 5A: Cote Deco - Interior Decoration

Hall 5B: Now!

Hall Six: Accessories Maison

Hall Seven: Outdoor/Indoor

The first couple of years I went to the show, I walked down every aisle in Halls 2, 3, 4, 5, and 5a. Surprised ?  Now, since I spend almost my entire show budget with about ten vendors, I have a lot of time left over for sightseeing.  When I first started coming to the Paris Show, I  bought a little bit from a lot of different vendors. That worked out well for a while, but it always left the customers wanting more. Now I buy enough from each vendor to really get 'a look." If I buy a new headboard style, then I will get the bedside tables, lamps, picture frames, bench, mirror, chandelier, and chest to finish out the 'vignette.' Very few people will need to buy the whole room 'turn-key,' but you would be surprised how many customers will choose several elements from the 'collection' that will all go together, but not look overly decorated. Customers are always exclaiming how 'pulled together' the stores are. Well, let me let you in on a little secret: it's not exactly me - it's the products. I just try to stay out of the way and not muck it up too much with my own details.

Show Tips:

Bring a calculator!!! Everything you buy at this show, you must pay for in Euros. So, when you look at a price, remember to multiply by the exchange rate. Also, you will need to ship your purchases home. Another very costly expense. Somehow, you must factor the cost-of-goods purchased/exchange rate/shipping (also paid for in Euros), customs and duty, and decent markup. Whether you factor in the cost of your shopping expedition on Rue de Honore, that is up to you and your excel spreadsheet.

This year, more than usual, were the signs: NO CAMERAS! NO CAMERAS! NO CAMERAS! With almost bodyguard-looking gentlemen standing around with their French arms crossed. So, I was not able to get very many good pictures at the booths, but I have some great catalogue shots.

Cote Bastide - I went here first for inspiration. I love everything Cote Bastide. This was one of the very first lines I ever bought for my store. I actually own these plates and flatware...

(Coming Soon: Heart/Cross napkin rings in three styles. Hope there's some left for you guys!)

Oh yeah, and I own all of that. My husband gets nervous every time he sees that I own more Cote Bastide than Cote Bastide does - I have the discontinued pieces too. Ten years of collecting!

New this year: Sleepytime Cote Bastide.

 

Blanc d'Ivoire - The Blanc d'Ivoire booth is 5000 square feet! They bring in antique flooring, antique windows and doors - you actually feel as though you are at a French country home. Just to put it in perspective, their five-day temporary booth is bigger than my brick & mortar stores in Houston.

Waiting to get in line to place an order...

This is one of the busiest booths you'll see at the Paris Gift Show.

 

 

Trade Show Secret Source - linen table runners, napkins, and tablecloths. We had them last Christmas and they sold out in just a few days so I ordered twice as much. Probably still stupid shopowner, should have ordered 10 times as much.

Juliska - An American company with products made in Eastern Europe, sold at the Paris show, whooooeee! Congrats!

Love the feathers - very Vegas Showgirl.

Paris Part IV: The Rodin Museum

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A short walk from Rue de Bac is the Rodin Museum.

Now, don't be put off by the word 'museum.'  This is no ordinary museum.   I wouldn't dream of coming to Paris without planning on spending at least half a day here .

We skipped the gift show today because the weather was supposed to be fair and the next two days it's predicted to rain. So while all the other worker bees are droning on at the Objet Show, I'm sticking it to the big guy and playing hookie. Oops, I am 'the big guy.'  I keep forgetting that.

A day at the Rodin Museum is my own personal reward, so to speak, for a job well done at the gift show, but I couldn't risk the rain ruining my favorite day in Paris. So, I promise to get up on time tomorrow and work really hard at the Objet Show. 

For me, the Rodin Museum is a two part-er.  The museum itself, and then the gardens. Oh,the gardens.

My Van Gogh - this ain't no coffee table Van Gogh. This painting is part of Rodin's personal collection. You will never stand this close to a Van Gogh ever again in your life. I could stare in amazement at this painting all day.  

      

The Monet hanging across the room isn't so bad either! I'm not sure anybody even knows it's there.

Balzac - Every husband has 'one of these' for a best friend, aghhh.

     

The Thinker - just makes you want to go - hmmmm.

The Hands  - Calgon take me away.

The Young Girl with Roses on her Hat - The Southern Belle in Paris?

Madame Roll - The Mother-in-Law. She probably made her poor schmuck son-in-law pay for it also.

The Kiss - stay tuned for next week's episode of Luke and Laura...

And there is the great man himself !!!

 

How clever are these figurines?! Pre Cirque de Soleil.

The Gardens . . . Simply phenomenal!

Look at those hydrangeas! They're bigger than snowballs!

It is unbelievable to think that this exists in the center of Paris. No King owned this, just a 'simple' sculptor. Ha!

The Gates of Hell - Are you in or out?

We spent the afternoon just hanging out in the gardens, pretending that we belong there.

Paris Part III: Reservations

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RESERVATIONS:

This trip to Paris I had a completely different prerequisite for making my dinner reservations - the restaurant had to be within walking distance of our hotel. There are so many incredible restaurants in the St. Germaine area that I didn't want to spread myself so thin racing all over Paris for the latest and greatest when some of the all-time best restaurants are just around the corner.

These restaurants may not be on your short list, but let me just say - I've never had a bad meal, ever. 

Le Mediterranee - For the Boulabaise, Why you would go - Cocteau did the murals hanging on every wall, the design on the menu, plates, ......and anything else you could conceivably print on.

Brasserie Balzar - despuis 1886.  Look for our good friend, Gabrielle.  What's good - for starters - the tapanade and a Kir Royal. It's a salty sugary thing. On Thursdays the house special is Casoulet.  And. who doesn't love Profiteroles !? The crowd is very friendly and the local French patrons don't cover their ears while the Americans talk.

   

A La Petite Chaise - Fonde en 1680. This restaurant is on record for being the 'oldest' restaurant in Paris. The concierge made our reservations and although the restaurant seemed a little kitschy or touristy for us, the food was incredible. Being American, we were, of course, banished upstairs with the children and the rest of the tourists. But the food was so good, who cares? And, actually, we might have been kind of loud, oops.

 

La Cigale Recamier - I hate to tell you that the restaurant is really good because you'll never get in.  See, Michelle Obama said it was her favorite restaurant in Paris so now it is booked through 2012. Try lunch, and of course, have a souffle! It's all about the souffles.

Chez Maitre Paul - Known for the Chicken with white wine sauce and mushrooms. Listed in the 'Best Restaurants Paris 2009' book. Huge honor.  It's all about the food, minimum ambience - except if you count the owner. He takes your order, and he is too charming in a completely French chef way.  

La Locanda - Italian ! Sometimes you just need - 'not French!' The gentleman who owns La Locanda is a very friendly Italian from Argentina ? Every time we eat at his restaurant he comes up to my husband double handshakes / double hugs / double kisses "I'm so flattered you are back. We have an excellent table for you!" and then turns to me with a smile and says 'ah, you've brought a friend.' grrrrr.

Le Comptoir -  Dying to eat here but I never think far enough in advance to make a reservation. Crazy crowded. Named "Restaurant of the Year Paris" a few years back. Adjacent to the Hotel Relais Saint Germain for you younger, groovier gals.

Across the street is Les Editeurs - same scene. I ate here last year and it was great!

Paris Part Deux!

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SIGHTSEEING/SHOPPING:

For the sake of simplicity, let's pretend you just finished breakfast/lunch at Cafe Flore, you are well caffeinated, and your wallet is full of Euros. Your goal is to find presents for friends and family. This just happens to be my personal favorite past time of Paris - the sightseeing / shopping excursion.

If you start on Rue Bonaparte you will find:

Achiles - a store for crazy socks. My husband must own at least 50 pairs by now. I call these 'airplane socks' because the person across the aisle on the plane is going to laugh at you when you take your shoes off.

 

Pharmacie - for the 'compedes' (buy these now for the walking blisters you'll get later, ha); known to be the least expensive pharmacy in the area for some reason, so expect a bit of a wait.

Le Jacquard - wonderful table linens!

 

Pierre Herme - the latest and greatest pastry guy - formerely the head pastry chef of Laduree. Expect a bit of a wait again. Macaroons said to be better than Laduree! Can't we just say that they're both incredible? A cookie tie!

On Place St. Sulpice, you'll find:

Yves Saint Laurent - Fashion's Monument

 

Annick Goutal - Monument to Perfume

 

Monument St. Sulpice - that other kind of monument

Jardin du Luxemborg - Whenever the opportunity arrives, walk through a garden. 

 

This is one of the only places in Paris where you will actually see people jogging. I just happen to notice a curious "-ism" in the garden - female joggers entered the garden and turned right, while male joggers entered and turned left. 

 

In economics, this is called the 'law of marginal return.' One group of joggers figured out that if they started their run going in the opposite direction that they will get to view the other group twice as much. Hmm.

La liberté éclairant le monde (the actual model for the Statue of Liberty)

      

L'Ecole D'Horticulture du Jardin du Luxemborg (Bee School) - Honey Sale September 26-27.

On Rue Vavin, you'll find several of the brands we carry at the store:

 

In the area still:

All roads lead back to the horse's ass. Five roads, literally, intersect with this guy. If you're ever lost, just keep walking until you find him.

 

The whole St. Germaine area has the best shops in Paris. Later, we visited Eres, known to make the best bikini 'known to man,' and Poilane, the most famous bakery in France. Every restaurant that cares about their reputation serves their bread. Buy a bag of butter cookies to take with you back to your room!

Obviously a cruel twist of fate that the swimsuit store would be just a few doors down from the bakery. It is obvious to me that there would be no reason to visit Poilane and Eres on the same day or even in the same season for that matter.

Comtesse du Barry sells assorted pate snacks that you can also take back to your room:

Down the street is the Mens' version of Eres, Vilebrequin.

 

But don't try to go to Vilebrequin for a bathing suit in August, when you'd need a bathing suit, because they're on vacation, grr.

I like to also visit Repetto, a store for the little ballerina in one's life. My niece is going to squeal when she sees her present!

 

Not enough for you? In the area there is also Herve Chapelier and Longchamp - if you need to buy an extra sack for the airplane like I always do...

 

I must have about eight of these by now - somehow, I always seem to over do it on the shopping.

Did I mention there is also Etro, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Armani, Marni, Sonia Rykiel, Custo, Max Mara, Burberry, Zara, newly opened Hermes...

 

The new Hermes Store opened while we were there. It was fun to walk by it each day to see all the worker frenzy. The store was built out to be open for only one year and then they will move to some cool grotto - swimming pool 'building' adjacent to the Hotel Lutetia, which is across from the Bon Marche.

The new store is very young and cool with concrete floors and two giant trees made of 'recycable cardboard tubes' with canopies made of Hermes scarves. Even Hermes is going green! (No silk worms where injured in the making of this canopy, ha)

...and coming soon is Ralph Lauren.

 

Sooo American! Can't we even TRY to fit in? Grr.

Began the day in Prada Python Gladiators...

Ended the day in Havaianas...

 

Shopping Tip: I always have a coordinating pair of Havaiana flip flops in my purse - would never want to cut a shopping day short due to a shoe malfunction.

I knew I was on to something with the whole gray thing when I noticed a tradtional French blue or green door painted cashmere gray.

Paris! Part I

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ACCOMODATIONS:

The Seine River is the dividing line between the Right Bank and the Left Bank in Paris. The only way I can remember which side is which is to refer to the eighties straight/gay urban myth  -  left is right, and right is wrong.

 

In the Right Bank is the Georges IV,  Plaza Athene,  Avenue Montagne,  and St. Honore.  All pomp and circumstance.  A lot of people would say it is the only place to stay in Paris.  Having said that, I stay in the Left Bank! The Left Bank is all about cafes with dogs asleep under the tables, curious little shops selling bread, chocolates, cashmere, or hats. And, sitting at one of the numerous outdoor cafes that seem to be on almost every block.  And  walking.  Plan on doing a lot of walking.

My hotel of choice is Hotel Des Saint Peres, located on Rue des St. Peres just one block off St. Germaine. 

 

 

Everything I could hope for is within walking distance from this hotel.  I start my day with breakfast/lunch at Cafe Flore.  

 

 

For some reason that I can't even remember now, I always eat at Cafe Flore and not next door at Cafe Magot.  I suspect the decision was made years ago simply because we come upon Cafe Flore first from the direction of our hotel.

TIPS:

- The Metro is located right next to the cafes. Not that any of the cafe's customers take the Metro - just me and my husband. The taxi stand is located right in front of the cafes - much more civilized.

- New last year, bicyclettes to rent. Pay-as-you-go.

 

 

Maybe not so great after heroic shopping day.

- The money exchange business is next door to the cafes, in case you didn't have a chance to change any currency at the airport.

 

- An ATM is across the street.  I put my American Chase debit card in and out comes Euros for a nominal fee.

 

Note: American Express Travelers Cheques are basically useless now. With the ever fluctuating dollar (and by that, I mean downward trend) French business' do want to bother with A.E. Travelers Checks. 

Oh, and just heard of very cool hotel nearby that I am going to recommend to some friends going to Paris next month - Hotel Particulier Montmarte.  

 

Just the type of hotel that you would hear about on a blog :}  The Hotel is in a house that once belonged to the Hermes family and features five suites - 4 junior (390 Euros) and one deluxe.  Enjoy, because now that I have disturbed their discreet tranquill reputation by blasting it on my blog - they will never let me stay there. The sacrifices I must make for blogging, ha.

In Préparation

 
  

PREPARATION :

In preparation for my trip to Paris, I head straight to the Galleria - shopping mecca of Houston (a three city block long, airconditioned 'ode' to the vice of spending.)

 

It is important for the Bi-Continent-Shopper to be able to spot the differences between the American styles and the Parisian styles amongst her favorite boutiques. It is my theory that many of THE fashion labels have developed a 'look' for the department stores, a 'look' for their boutique stores, and saved yet another, chicer 'look' for their  Parisian stores.  I'm sure that you could expand my fashion philosophy further to say that even the L.A., N.Y., and Houston stores receive different pieces. All this inconsistency makes it very difficult on the weekend shopper. Sometimes, 'Vogue' just isn't enough.  Therefore, the Bi-Continent-Shopper wants to spend her time, energy, and resources on 'unique' pieces not common to her hometown. Unlike a big-game-hunter posing next to his kill, the Bi-Continent-Shopper when complimented on her never-before-seen scarf, sweetly smiles and effortlessly states: "It's lovely isn't it? I picked it up in Paris."

Now, on this particular trip to the Galleria, my obliging husband came along, muttering something about prices and exchange rates. There I am, looking for inspiration and, there he is like rain man trying to memorize the price of every item I pick up. 

OOPS, I bought a gray purse. Well, it was done in the name of research. Now my husband can enjoy spending his time calculating the difference between a handbag purchased at the Galleria in dollars and like handbag puchased on St. Sulpice in Euros.  

Au Revoir for now. Next entry: Paris! I'll let you know how I came out on the handbag.